French (food idiom) Fridays: En faire tout un fromage
(plus a recipe for a fuss-free soufflé!)
en faire tout un fromage = to make a mountain out of a molehill (to make an unnecessary fuss)
what does the expression “en faire tout un fromage” mean and where does it come from?
En faire tout un fromage literally means “to make a whole cheese out of it” - over complicating something which doesn't need to be, making a mountain out of a molehill as we would say in English.
It comes from the idea that milk, a simple product, is used to make cheese, whose process is complex1. It’s thought that the expression was first used in the 20th century, with an example noted in the 1945 novel En revenant des Kommandos by Jacques Zimmermann2 with one character making a big(ger than necessary) fuss over the state of his feet.
Another, less popular3, theory suggests the saying comes from the idea that just the same way someone might be unnecessarily complicating a situation and making it a huge deal, the smell of (even a small piece of) cheese can take over a whole room (you know the ones, I’m talking about you, Époisses!) in a dramatic fashion.
In any case, who doesn’t like an expression about cheese? ;)
et maintenant, à table!
This month’s recipe is a twice-baked soufflé. I know, I know, a SOUFFLÉ - really, Mardi? Well yeah! A soufflé is a lot like this month’s idiom - simple ingredients that create something a little complex but actually this version takes away some of the stress of making and serving a soufflé. This is a recipe I’d forgotten about until recenlty when I was wondering what to do with a glut of goat cheese in my fridge and searched my brain for some easy recipes to use it up. This type of soufflé might have been popular years ago but it’s quick, easy and impressive so why not bring it back?
This one is really so much easier than a regular soufflé because it’s not MEANT to be sky high and puffy and you don’t need to serve it IMMEDIATELY it’s baked (so, you know, you don’t need to faire tout un fromage about it!).
I first made a version of this back in 2010 as part of the Daring Cooks cook-alongs, basing my version then on a recipe from Bon Appétit in 1999. For today’s recipe, I played around with a few different variations to come up with this one which came together really quickly and turned out so well.
These really are no-fuss at all and if you really wanted to eat them WITHOUT baking them twice, you could. Sometimes these DO rise dramatically like a “proper” soufflé but my final version didn’t (and it sunk even more once I’d opened the oven door even just for a few seconds). But no matter - you’re making TWICE BAKED soufflés so you don’t need to worry!
These, just out of the oven were like a lovely cheesy eggy custard that was light and fluffy inside and quite delicious. But I think I like them better after they’ve had a rest in the fridge and are baked again. They get a little crispy on the outside but retain the fluffy interior. Perfect to serve on a salad for a light lunch or supper.
We actually ended up eating two of these on a large salad for dinner one night but one of these with a smaller salad is a lovely starter to a meal too.
The fact that these can be made in advance makes them a perfect "guestable”4 starter for your next dinner party!
get the recipe!
Grab the printable recipe by clicking on the blue button!
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Maison de la Fontaine is a cozy, comfortable, tastefully decorated house in the friendly, quaint town of Nerac. It was perfect for us and was well stocked with everything we could need. Essentials were provided by the hosts, Mardi & Neil, as well as a much-appreciated welcome basket. Shopping for food items was close by within easily walkable distances. How wonderful to live the life of a rural Francophone in this wonderfully civilized country.
Mardi & Neil were exceptional hosts - always easily contacted and quick to respond to any questions about the accommodation or to provide recommendations. We could see the effort and thought that was put into hosting, with a very thorough House Manual that provided easy-to-follow instructions and provided lots of recommendations.
We found ourselves thoroughly relaxed, and Maison de la Fontaine was the perfect home base from which to explore the beautiful Gascony area of France. We are already looking forward to our next visit!
~ guest review, April 2025
Our charming house in Nérac, halfway between Bordeaux and Toulouse, is in the heart of Gascony. Can’t you picture yourself here?
Thanks for reading! Until next time!
Mardi
xo
via 20 Minutes
"guestable” - easy enough to make but nice enough to serve to guests!
Love it all Mardi. And now I know what I’ll want you to make me when you are here in Paris 🥰
I love the word "guestable"! Bon week-end, Mardi!